Day 9: Pomegranate Chicken

Well, it's our last night in Kuwait until Monday, as the group is heading off to Doha, Qatar tomorrow afternoon! 

Today was a pretty low-key day. We had class at AUK, but the entire campus was closed due to graduation (as if that's a reason to shut down a school when you've already promised a classroom to visiting students), so we held class in the Starbucks next door (Heaven!). We had a guest speaker, Dahem Al-Qahtani, who is a writer/blogger/television news anchor in Kuwait. He presented a very different perspective from people we have been speaking to so far. During our time here we have been learning a lot about the various divisions in Kuwaiti society, one of the most crucial being the divide between the Hadhar (urban population) and the Badu (tribal population). The urbans are usually more liberal, while the tribals are much more conservative. We have been meeting mostly with the urbans, but Dahem identifies as a tribal, and presented a very different narrative about Kuwait than we had previously heard. For example, he favors the new law passed in Kuwait that declares a person can be executed for blasphemy.

We had the rest of the day off to do whatever we wanted, so I attempted to be productive and hand-wash my laundry so that I would have semi-clean clothes for Doha. I'm not sure how much cleaner the clothes actually are, but at least I feel a little better about it. 

Tonight the group of 7 went to Marina Mall, a really nice mall (all the malls here are really nice so I guess that's not saying much) near Salmiya. We ate at a delicious restaurant that was especially cool because the menu explained where each dish was from. It was here that I experienced my favorite dinner so far on the trip: Pomegranate Chicken. Mom, we need to learn how to make this:

Pomegranate chicken with saffron rice

My mocktail for the evening was a Beirut Sunshine - pomegranate and lemon. I definitely went all out with the pomegranate tonight...delicious.

Before dinner, the group decided to say grace and go around one by one and say a little something, whether it be a prayer or something we were thankful for, it didn't matter. I'm by no means the most religious person in the world, and that's probably putting it lightly, but I really appreciated this moment we shared as a group. We held hands, and I think the entire restaurant stopped what they were doing and stared at us. I can't imagine what a sight this must have been for everyone.

After dinner we walked around the mall for awhile. We met two young men from Egypt and discussed the recent revolution and elections with them. They encouraged us to go to Egypt - I wish! That would be so amazing, I hope to go there someday. One of the things we discussed at dinner that really struck me was how overwhelming it is sometimes to realize that we are learning so much about just one small country - and there is so much more for us to learn about Kuwait - and this is just one country in the world. It's intimidating to realize that we only understand very little about the world, but exciting at the same time because there is just so much to discover on this planet.

We took cabs back to the hotel; our cab driver was from Afghanistan (first time I'd met an expat from there so far). We were asking him questions, but he really didn't speak much English. He seemed to be getting frustrated with himself that he could not communicate with us very well; as if it was his fault. He said that he could not speak English well because he had not gone to school. Something about this exchange really affected me. I felt terribly because we were trying so hard to communicate with each other, but we just couldn't. It made me very sad. 

On a lighter note, I can't wait to leave for Doha tomorrow. We have a jam-packed weekend that promises to be absolutely incredible!

Before I sign off, I want to share this article from today's issue of Alanba newspaper, the daily Arabic newspaper we visited on Tuesday:

It's in Arabic, but you should get the gist!

Goodnight!

Day 8: Women's Social and Cultural Center

Week 1 in Kuwait: check!

We've only been here a week and I already feel like I've learned more about Kuwait and the Gulf Region than I could have possibly learned in a full regular classroom course. 

Today was an interesting day. In class we discussed the expats in Kuwait. Expats account for more than 50% of the population and are an issue that most Kuwaitis do not care to talk about. Since it's late, I'll talk about them more in a later post. 

This afternoon we had a good amount of downtime, or "siesta" as we've begun calling it, so I treated myself to a mocktail:

Bora Bora - passionfruit, pineapple, grenadine

This evening we visited the Women's Social and Cultural Center in Kuwait City. We had an interesting discussion with 3 women from the center, two of whom studied in Boston - Tufts and BU! One also got her master's at SOAS! Quite a popular school, apparently. We not only talked about women in Kuwait, but we also discussed our impressions of women in Kuwait compared to what we had expected before we arrived. My biggest observation - and one of the aspects most fascinating to me - is the wide variation in women's dress. Some women wear no veil at all, while others are completely covered in the burka. Dr. Lugna of Kuwait University described what she has labeled the "4 F's," in other words, the four reasons for which Muslim women might decide to be veiled: freedom, force, fashion, and faith. I've definitely noticed the fashion, as many women who wear burkas also wear incredible jewelry, high heels, and have extensive eye makeup. This is something I never would have expected to see before coming to the Middle East. I have always had just one impression of what being veiled as a Muslim looks like; I had no idea there was such variation, and it is incredibly fascinating. We also talked about how politicized the veil has become, especially in recent years. It represents something to outsiders who understanding nothing about it.

We then went out to dinner with Hala, one of Professor Bailey's former students who lives in Kuwait. We went to a delicious Lebanese restaurant and had great conversation. We then had sheesha, and I tried some for the first time! Sorry Mom and Dad - when in Rome, right?

but interesting to try!

Not my favorite pastime, 

I even made a friend in one of the servers from Egypt, who I was able to speak to in Arabic! He asked me if I had even been to Cairo, and I told him that I hope to visit one day, inshahAllah (God willing). We stayed and talked for a long time, so it's now late and I'm super tired. This will probably be one of my shortest posts ever - so don't get used to it! 

Before I go, here are some pictures I've stolen from my fellow classmates from the past few days of the trip! Enjoy!

Group photo at the AWARE Center

Room of expats at newspaper I mentioned yesterday

Grand Mosque with other visitors

Group photo at Kuwait Towers!

Day 7: Alanba Newspaper

!سلام

I can't believe it was a week ago today that I left the States for Kuwait. Sometimes it does not feel like we've been here that long, but when I think about all of the things we have already done, it seems like we've been in the Middle East for weeks.

Today we had class and then visited an Arabic newspaper in the afternoon. On our way we stopped in front of Kuwait Towers to take a couple of pictures. Kuwait Towers are signature structures of Kuwait, and the plan was to go up inside of them because there is a view deck and a restaurant. Unfortunately, the towers are currently under renovation (as are many things in Kuwait, apparently). I got some good pictures though, so close enough, right?

Pretty cool, I must admit

Trying not to look too awkward...

Next we arrived at Alanba Newspaper, a daily Arabic language newspaper in Kuwait. We met the managing editor, Mohamed, who gave us a tour of the building and discussed each different department and its responsibilities. It was really cool, especially since I don't think I've ever actually been in a newspaper office before. A lot of the offices were really gorgeous. We ended the tour downstairs in the printing room, which was really neat:

Tomorrow's paper!

Paper supply: so many trees...

Next to the printing room, there was a room with about 30 or more ex-pat workers in an assembly line, adding the sections of the paper together. They were all standing and looked very surprised to see us. I was a little shocked. Apparently, they work 13 hours a day, from 2pm-3am. I cannot imagine doing the same thing (folding papers), for 13 hours, standing the entire time. If the ex-pats are staying in Kuwait to do these jobs, it makes me wonder how bad the jobs in their home countries are.

After the tour we sat and drank tea with Mohamed while we waited for our glamorous Holiday Inn bus to pick us up. Mohamed was so great, and we will hopefully be going out to dinner with him sometime next week. He also invited us to write a piece for the paper, and promised to publish it in Alanba. I might take him up on that! While we were drinking tea, an employee went into the main hall and did the call to prayer, right in the middle of the office. It was absolutely beautiful - we had not heard it live before. Mohamed made an interesting comment; he said that he thinks that these types of things are becoming too public in recent years. I have to admit that even I was a little surprised that this live call to prayer took place right in the office.

From there on the night was free, so the group headed to the Old Souk. It was a lot different being in the Souk the second time, and I felt much more comfortable. I think the Souk is by far my favorite place we have gone so far. I haven't been able to capture any good pictures of it, but I want to give you an idea of what it looks like, so I'm stealing some pictures from the internet to help me explain:

There's the orange jumpsuit I mentioned previously...

So much food! We are often offerred samples, which is fun!

Dates!

There is just so much to do at the Souk, I feel like I could spend years in there. I love all of the different people; Kuwaitis, ex-pats, everyone is there. We are stared at all the time, but I think I might actually be getting used to it. People are just so friendly (and yes, I know many of them are trying to get me to buy something, but still) and many who are just shopping themselves or sitting and drinking tea shout "Welcome to Kuwait" or "Welcome to the Middle East!" I feel like people, both Kuwaitis and ex-pats, really appreciate that we are here and that we are clearly interested in learning about them and their culture.

Around 10pm we caught 2 cabs and headed back to the hotel. Our cab driver was from Bangladesh, and we tried to have a conversation with him, but he wasn't very interested in talking to us, or so it seemed. He said a few words and then turned the radio up very loudly, to an American music radio station. I hadn't realized that I hadn't listened to American music in almost a week! How strange. 

Day 6: The Grand Mosque and Diwaniyya

11pm -

!مرحباً

Another fascinating day here in Kuwait! This morning's class featured a guest speaker, Dr. Farah Al-Niqad, a history professor at AUK. She led a very interesting discussion about Kuwait in the context of the Arab Spring. Coincidently enough, she got her Masters and PHD from the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), where I'll be studying abroad next spring! After class I talked to her about SOAS, and she told me about all the awesome things they offer there. I'm even more excited for next January!

What I learned this morning is that Kuwait was not really affected by the Arab Spring at all. Kuwait is so different from other Arab countries that were directly influenced by the Arab Spring because of its massive wealth, and its redistribution of that wealth to the people. Kuwait is also immensely different from other Arab states because it has had traces of democracy in its history since its founding in 1716. Kuwait has a ruling family (as opposed to a royal family) that was chosen by the people through consensus. The Al-Sabah family did not simply take power by force; but rather, they were given power by the people. In Kuwait's earliest years, decisions were made through consensus, and elements of this system remain intact even today. 

Walking back to the hotel, I had an interesting talk with Professor Bailey about Saudi Arabia. Dr. Farah talked about a viral video making its rounds this past weekend of a woman in Saudi Arabia who was harassed by the police in a mall for wearing nail polish. The video is essentially the woman yelling at police, telling them to leave her alone. I was surprised that women were even allowed to wear nail polish, and wondered why the police would be harassing her if it was legal in the first place. It turns out that all of these things I had assumed to be illegal (such as nail polish, western clothing, etc.) in Saudi Arabia are all perfectly fine...as long as they are in private. Saudi Arabia even has malls with Victoria's Secret, where women buy $100 rhinestone bras, skimpy lingerie, and scandalous dresses. All of these things are completely acceptable, as long as they are worn in the home. I asked then if, since all of these things are okay in private, why alcohol is still unacceptable to have in the home. Professor Bailey explained that there really is no substantial reasoning present. Some things are okay, some are forbidden, and that's just the way it is. Interestingly enough, the Gulf States are pretty much the only remaining countries that forbid alcohol. Many people believe that if places like Kuwait legalized alcohol, it could greatly boost its tourism, especially during the winter months when the country is a  beautiful and comfortable 70 degrees. 

Back to today - this afternoon we visited the Grand Mosque, which is the main mosque of Kuwait. Although it was absolutely incredible from the outside, we were unfortunately unable to go into the main part of the mosque (which is kind of the whole point) due to last-minute renovation from water damage. It was still a cool experience though. We put on traditional dress and took our shoes off to walk through the mosque.

I obviously didn't take this picture, but I wanted to
provide an idea of the grand mosque's massive
size and beauty!

Outside the Entrance

Traditional Dress - not the most flattering

Smile!

The space was absolutely stunning. We first entered an outdoor prayer area used for mass crowds (like during Ramadan). There were gorgeous light fixtures, and beautiful marble:

Outside area for praying

Our tour guide, Mazaid!

Shoe-holders

Next, we went into the second major area for praying, used daily by the population. Muslims pray five times each day, and those specific times change every day.

Stunning lanterns along each row

Beautiful wall tiling

Minbar where sermons are delivered

Mazaid demonstrating the prostration during prayer

We then went upstairs to where the women pray. Women and men pray separately, and our tour guide even joked that the women get a nicer room than the men. It was funny at first, but then I realized how strange this extreme gender segregation was to me.

Self-explanatory

Female prayer room

Qurans - we were not allowed to touch them

We finally ended the tour in the diwaniyya room. It was absolutely stunning, and had a glass case in the center with an original page from the Quran!

Diwaniyya room - absolutely gorgeous!

Page from the Quran

Close-up! 

Early Arabic script written on papyrus

Still stunning

Overall, it was quite an interesting experience to be in a mosque for the first time. I know we will be visiting more (hopefully) throughout the trip. I especially like how each mosque is very different from the outside - some are incredibly creative and every single one is so unique. 

Next, Mazaid brought us to visit an organization he volunteers at called AWARE: Advocates for Western Arab Relations. It not only provides services to foreigners visting/moving to Kuwait (such as Arabic classes and site visits), but it also establishes connections between Kuwaiti and American students to help them learn about one another and remove the stereotypes that they hold towards each other. It was a really neat place, and we'll probably be going back next week! Here's the link to their website, in case you're interested!

We then went to a diwaniyya, which was probably my favorite part of the day. One the way there, we passed through some very wealthy neighborhoods, and I snapped a few pictures of a traditional Kuwaiti "house." You'll see in a second why I put house in quotation marks.

Seriously?

Christmas lights?

This is ONE house for ONE family, apparently.

I especially love how the fence matches perfectly the house

Next, we arrived at the Diwaniyya. Diwaniyyas are where people from the community gather together, often in a large room with couches all along the walls, and talk about pretty much anything. They are usually all male, although there are some specifically for women. The one we went to was hosted by Mr. Abdulaziz Ahmad Al-Ghannam, who is a member of one of the wealthiest families in Kuwait. Although the diwaniyya was restricted to men, they made a special exception for our group. They could not have been more welcoming, and it was a great experience. The house was specifically designated for such meetings, and the main room was so beautiful. We were served delicious coffee and tea, and even met the Saudi Arabian ambassador to Kuwait (we're kind of a big deal)!

Diwaniyya room

Hoping to have this over my dining room table one day...

Snagged a picture with my tea when the men left to pray!

Wow...

We should be visiting another diwaniyya next Tuesday, and I can't wait! I think it may have been one of my favorite site visits so far. We grabbed a quick dinner with Mazaid on the way back to the hotel, and then called it a night. It was quite a jam-packed day!

I'll leave you with one last picture I took today: a 2-story McDonalds. Eric, don't get too excited.

Dad's worst nightmare

Day 5: Failaka Island

11:30pm-

Another thing to cross off of my bucket list: swimming in the Arabian Gulf! My first reaction - extremely salty! But also very warm, which was kind of a bummer since it was over 110 degrees outside today (again), and a swim in cold water would have been quite refreshing. Failaka Island was beautiful, but strange (as are most of the things I've encountered in Kuwait). Failaka Island is about a 30 minute ferry ride off the coast of Kuwait that was the first part of Kuwaiti land to be invaded by Iraq in 1990. 22 years later, Failaka is the definition of a ghost-town. 

Very unhelpful map of the island

There is one hotel with a swimming pool, restaurant, and miniature golf course (who in the world would want to play mini-golf in this heat, I have no idea). Everywhere else is abandoned. Near the hotel there is a kind of historical museum that had some neat exhibits:

Clay model

Incense and Latern

Bridal Bed

Emir of Kuwait, Sheikh Sabah

Some Traditional Cloth

We ate in the hotel's restaurant for lunch, swam in the hotel swimming pool (which is actually air conditioned because it is so hot!), took a short bus tour around the island, and swam at the beach. The interesting thing was that pretty much everything has stayed exactly the same since the Iraqi invasion. Kuwait has done absolutely nothing to revamp and improve what could otherwise be a beautiful tourist destination. 

Back of the island mosque

Collapsed buildings

Desert!

During the bus tour, we visited an old junkyard that housed Iraqi military equipment. According to Professor Bailey, these tanks were provided by Russia:

Next, we visited a camel farm! All of the camels walked right up to us, it was so funny! If we got too close, they even started nibbling on our hair!

Serious Teeth

Making friends

Missing Sadie and Cooper, but these camels are pretty fun!

Our new friend!

This guy needs some lip injections...

Zoo Tycoon would definitely give a warning about too many animals in this exhibit 

Driving to the beach, we saw a lot of buildings that had been destroyed by the Iraqi invasion. We also saw the one new part of the island - the mosque.

Bullet holes in the island police station 

The Island Mosque

Ruins

It was very strange to see this entire island left in the disarray caused by Iraq more than 20 years ago. You would think that the government and royal family would not want to leave it like this, but apparently not. 

Next, we finally made it to the beach! There were a bunch of jetskis, but it was very expensive, so Professor Bailey rented one and would be the driver for the entire 30 minutes. As Eric knows, I only love jetskis when I'm the one driving (otherwise I get incredibly frustrated), so I didn't go out and instead swam in the beautiful Arabian Gulf...quite an experience.

A Dream

So many jetskis! 

Deserted beach

Ducks!

Overall, it was a great day! We took the ferry back and cleaned up after a long afternoon in the heat and sand. We were on our own for dinner tonight, so the group of 7 decided to venture out into the streets and find a local restaurant. We found a great place called Saraya Palace, where we were able to sit outside and enjoy a nice, relaxed meal together. I have a confession...I ordered Italian pasta! The food here has been great, but I needed a break from all the different spices and wanted to try some Middle Eastern Italian. It was pretty darn good - I even saved the rest of have for lunch tomorrow! 

Tomorrow we are visiting the Grand Mosque of Kuwait in Kuwait City, which is going to be incredible. I've never been in a mosque before and am so excited. I want to leave you with some extra pictures that aren't from today, but that I wanted to share with you nonetheless!

Group dinner the first night!

Me, Maya and Margaret in the hotel lobby!

SANDSTORM during our first full day, May 24th!

With that, GOODNIGHT! :)