Well, it's 10:30pm here in Kuwait, and if there is one thing I'm learning so far during this trip, it's that there is really no way to plan what we're going to do each day. There are so many different schedules to work out, and so many different considerations to take into account (such as weather, i.e. sandstorms), that it is quite impossible to do exactly what we had planned each day. So, to those of you who have my syllabus/itinerary, it probably won't match up with my blog from here on out. Sorry!
Today was another fun day, although a little strange at times. We started out with breakfast, and I read the Kuwait Times:
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| Front Page |
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| Back Page: Congrats Sixers! |
Even though it was a day late, the headlines of the sports section read, "Sixers Claw Their Way Back Into The Series." I know that the Middle East isn't really big on sports, but I didn't realize that their sports headlines would consist of the US NBA Playoffs!
After breakfast we headed to AUK and had a guest lecturer, Mr. Samar Khanachet, the President of United Gulf Management. He discussed US/Arab relations, and noted some interesting points about Kuwait. It is definitely fascinating to hear the different perspectives from around the region that are often so different from those found in the U.S. Toward the end of the discussion, Mr. Khanachet said something that really struck me. We had been talking about how wealthy Kuwait is (because of oil), and he said, "You will find more empathy, kindness, and a sense of sharing in the poorest village in India than here in Kuwait." Money is what Kuwaitis focus on, and money generates envy, greed, and the absolute worst in human nature.
Kuwait is really strange to me. I have to admit, I don't really understand this country at all (at least so far, which is to be expected). Kuwait has a population of about 3.5 million people; however, only 1.6 million of these people are actually Kuwaiti. The rest are ex-pats, who will never be able to gain Kuwaiti citizenship. They are here only to work and receive none of the benefits of being a Kuwaiti citizen. Kuwaiti citizens pretty much live the life; they have free education, free healthcare, no taxes, and receive an oil subsidy every month from the government. They are also guaranteed a job within the government once they complete their education. Thus, 90% of Kuwaitis work for the government. Those who work in the private sector still receive a monthly "salary" from the government. What we have been learning during these first few days, then, is that there really is no incentive for Kuwaitis to do much of anything. They can't lose their jobs, so why work hard or be productive when they're actually at work?
After class, the group of 7 walked back to the hotel, taking our time along the way looking at some food shops, such as this one:
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| Nothing like a warm cookie in 110 degree weather! |
After we got back to the hotel, we had a nice long afternoon break. I went out and laid out by the pool for the first time, which was actually great. It was pretty hot - to put it mildly - but that just made swimming in the pool that much more refreshing. I'm going to make my best attempt at accumulating some sort of tan while I'm here, but I have to be really careful to make sure I don't get burnt to a crisp (trying to make you proud, Mom)!
One of the strangest points of the day happened while I was out in the pool area. They were playing famous pop songs, like "Dynamite," and "Take it Off" by Kesha, which was strange enough as it was. Then, Kesha is in the middle of talking about how she has a water bottle full of whiskey in her handbag, getting her drunk-text on, in a club that is a "dirty free-for-all," when the call to prayer comes on. Immediately, the music is shut off for the next 30 minutes.
Our plan was to go to the Old Souk (marketplace/bazaar) tonight, but we had to cancel that plan because it was still too dusty from yesterday. Instead, we went to a beautiful place called the 360 Mall. Yes, a mall. I had no idea that we would be visiting malls while in the Middle East, but I now realize how naive I had been. At first, we were all a little confused as to why we would be visiting a mall in Kuwait. After all, that's something most of us do on a regular basis in the U.S. What cultural experience can be found in a shopping mall? I quickly realized that this was probably our first exposure to the real Kuwaiti population (Holiday Inn Salmiya is not directly near where Kuwaitis live; we are surrounded by much of the ex-pat population). Friday is Holy Day in Islam, and so Friday and Saturday are the "weekend" here. Thus, on Friday night, the hot thing to do is go to the mall.
The 360 Mall of Kuwait puts Mall of America (I'm assuming even though I've never been) and King of Prussia (sorry Eric and Mom) Mall to absolute shame. It is absolutely huge, and has more high-end shops than one could possibly imagine. It is so over the top, it has glass decorations that hang from the ceilings, such as these:
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| Part of the mall's interior |
Pretty cool if you ask me. We walked around and ate dinner, and honestly, it was a cultural experience just to people-watch. According to Professor Bailey, there really is nothing else to do besides go to the mall. I could tell - it was jam-packed the entire time we were there, and as we left I could see that the massive parking lots were overflowing with cars. Kuwaitis are just so wealthy - I did not usually picture this when I imagined the Middle East. If you're interested, here is the link to the 360 Mall's website. Who knew a mall could contain a cultural experience. See Mom and Dad?
After returning to the hotel, we went outside to do Sheesha (Hookah, according to America). Don't worry parents, I didn't try any. I have to admit though, it did smell pretty amazing!
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| Sheesha |
Any form of smoking is highly unappealing to me, but this is definitely a huge cultural aspect of the Middle East.
This place is still very strange to me, but I know that each day I'll feel a little more comfortable here. One thing I don't think I'll ever get used to, though, is the constant staring. Especially in the 360 Mall, our group stood out so intensely. Some people even took pictures of us!
I'm glad that the Sixers are news in Kuwait! I have a two questions from reading about your experiences thus far (particularly today):
ReplyDelete1. What is your opinion on the job security situation for Kuwaitis? Do you find it creates a sense of entitlement and/or generates laziness/recklessness or moral hazard in the workforce?
2. The culture (from your descriptions and pictures) seems like an odd balance between American consumer culture and Islam. The call to prayer/Ke$ha story really sticks out. How do you think a Kuwaiti balances these clashing ideals? Or do they even clash at all?
1. From my perspective, the job security guaranteed to all Kuwaitis definitely creates a sense of entitlement and generates laziness in the workforce. Our guest speaker yesterday told us about a study done a few years ago that determined that the average Kuwaiti works about 60 minutes each day (they are in the office for longer, but this is the amount of time spent actually working). Obviously, this is next to nothing. According to Professor Bailey and Kuwaitis we have talked to, Kuwaitis are not at work for many hours per day, they can leave whenever they please, and they are not actually working when in the office. Because they cannot be fired or let go, there is no incentive to do the job well. I have definitely sensed entitlement among Kuwaitis as well, both in restaurants and at the 360 Mall. Because Kuwait is an oil-rich country that supplies much of the world (even though it is only the size of New Jersey), and that oil wealth is redistributed to the people, Kuwaitis know that their country is an important one. Especially when dealing with the ex-pat workers in restaurants and in stores, they seem to have the attitude that, "you're lucky to be here, so you better give me everything I ask for."
ReplyDelete2. I would guess that this balance between American consumer culture and Islam is the case with most Arab/Muslim countries, especially the smaller wealthier states (such as Qatar and the UAE) that have so much money they don't know what to do with it all. I think the 2 cultures definitely clash. I don't understand how you can be listening to a song about getting drunk and hooking up, and then shut it off when you hear the call to prayer. But then again, isn't this the case in America? We all listen to songs that go against our values and beliefs (such as objectifying women, drugs, and violence) on a regular basis. I don't know what to make of that, both back home in America, and here in Kuwait. To me, it is a little stranger in Kuwait just because religious is so out in the open in society and is a huge part of daily life.
Another interesting note I would like to mention is something Professor Bailey told us about last night when we were explaining the Kesha/call to prayer story. She said that last year, the group went to see a movie at a Kuwaiti movie theater, just to see what it was like. They went to see Indiana Jones, and there was a scene in which 2 actors were about to kiss. Right before, the screen went black and cut to the next scene when the kissing was clearly over. Apparently, it is the visual, not the audial, that Kuwaitis (and I'm assuming other Arab/Muslim states) have a problem with. In other words, it is okay to listen to a song about drinking and sex because you are only listening to it, not seeing anything. If you were watching a movie or television show that displayed drinking and sexuality, this would be much more offensive because you are actually witnessing these things occurring.
Thanks for the comment, Eric :) Your questions make me think and reflect a lot more on my experiences here, so keep 'em coming!
Will do :) Thanks for the wonderfully thorough response!
ReplyDeleteJust realized this may have been sarcastic on your part...
ReplyDelete